The Falls of Unich: A Wild Waterfall Odyssey in the Angus Glens

Hidden at the remote northern head of Glen Esk—widely celebrated as one of the most picturesque of the five iconic Angus Glens—the Falls of Unich and the neighboring Falls of Damff form the spectacular centerpiece of an adventurous mountain circuit. Far more than a standard riverside stroll, exploring this dramatic corner of the eastern Cairngorms National Park is a demanding, 10-mile (16km) wilderness odyssey. The journey seamlessly weaves through centuries of Scottish history, passes the glassy waters of a pristine mountain reservoir, and climbs into the rugged, high-altitude plateaus of the Highlands. For hikers seeking raw natural beauty paired with a genuine sense of backcountry exploration, this route offers one of the most complete and varied hillwalking experiences in the region.

The Gateway: Historical Wonders of Glen Esk

The journey deep into the glen begins at the Auchronie public car park, located roughly 15 miles north of the village of Edzell. Because this serves as the primary gateway for both the waterfall circuit and baggers heading up the popular easternmost Munro, **Mount Keen**, arriving early to secure a space is highly recommended. The initial mile of the trail provides a captivating walk through Scotland’s past:

• Invermark Castle: Standing proud against the heather-clad hills is the imposing, boxy silhouette of this 16th-century tower house. Built around 1526, this four-story stone fortress was strategically placed to defend the entrance of the glen from highland raiders and cattle thieves.
• The Old Kirk: Just a short distance further lie the atmospheric, roofless ruins of the old Lochlee Parish Church and its historic graveyard, offering a quiet, reflective spot before the trail transitions into the wild landscape ahead.

Loch Lee and the Tactical Bridge Warning

Leaving the ruins behind, the route follows a wide, well-maintained estate track along the northern shoreline of **Loch Lee**. This crystal-clear body of water serves as a vital drinking water reservoir for the region, flanked by steep, dramatic valley walls that drop sharply into the loch.

At the far western end of the loch, where the Water of Lee feeds into the basin, hikers are met with a long-standing local notice: "Access to Falls of Unich is not recommended due to a bridge in disrepair." While the standard path leads directly up the riverbank toward the gorge, tackling the loop in a clockwise direction is often the smartest tactical move. By heading left toward the farm at Inchgrundle and ascending the high ground first, you can assess the river conditions from above. If the water levels are in heavy spate and the crossings below the falls are completely impassable, you can easily retrace your steps across the ridge rather than getting trapped at the bottom of a steep canyon.

Ascending Cairn Lick and the High Plateau

Choosing the clockwise variant leads to a steady, rewarding climb up the serpentine mountain track toward the panoramic summit of **Cairn Lick (682m)**. As you gain elevation, the vast scale of the Angus landscape unfolds. Looking back, the entire length of Loch Lee is visible, nestled perfectly within the surrounding ridges. To the north, the sharp, distinctive cone of Mount Keen dominates the horizon. A spectacular highlight of this high-level traverse is peeking over the craggy edges into the deep, dramatic corrie below to view the **Lochan of Carlochy**—a dark, moody body of water that looks like a sapphire set into the granite hills.

The Waterfall Gorge: Damff and Unich

The descent from the high plateau down into the deep river trench is where the trail earns its reputation for true wilderness navigation. Paths can easily become faint, rocky, and exceptionally boggy as you track the watercourse down through the gorge:

• The Falls of Damff: This is the hidden giant of the glen. Tucked deep within a vertical-sided, sheer rock canyon, the falls are difficult to view fully from the safety of the main path, as you are essentially walking along the "roof" of the cascade. While faint, precarious tracks exist on the opposite bank for a clearer angle, many modern outdoor photographers find that a drone is the safest way to truly capture the immense scale of Damff without risking a dangerous scramble over the slick canyon edge.
• The Falls of Unich: Located roughly a 30-minute walk downstream from Damff lies the true star of the trek. Unlike its hidden neighbor, the Falls of Unich are magnificently exposed and accessible. Hikers can carefully scramble right down onto the rocky slabs at the base of the white-water curtain to feel the thundering vibrations and cold river spray. It is a stunning, multi-tiered drop that feels incredibly powerful, especially after heavy rains across the Cairngorms.

The "Rickety Bridge" Mystery and 2026 Tips

The final hurdle of the circuit is navigating the crossing just below the Falls of Unich. Despite the serious warnings posted at the trailhead, the footbridge often looks deceptively sturdy to the naked eye. However, local authorities maintain the warning due to hidden structural decay within the timbers. During dry summer spells, many walkers choose to bypass the bridge entirely, using natural stepping stones located a few hundred yards downstream—though these require excellent balance as the rocks can sit just below the water line!

Footwear and Gear: Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots with solid ankle support are non-negotiable for this trek. The terrain between the high hills and the waterfalls is notoriously wet, muddy, and slick underfoot.

Navigation: The high plateau between Cairn Lick and the waterfalls can quickly become enveloped in dense hill fog. Carrying a traditional map and compass (OS Explorer OL53) or a reliable GPS device is essential.

Wildlife Watch: Keep your eyes peeled as you walk through the birch woods near the start of the trail. Glen Esk remains an important stronghold and one of the finest places in the east of Scotland to spot native red squirrels.